Monday, 7 July 2008

How to...appliqué (part two)

I apologise for the delay in getting this to you but here is part two for your reading pleasure.

As outlined in the first part of this tutorial, you need the following things;

Things you will need
Tee-shirt or onesie
Fabrics for the appliqué
Vliesofix (or Wonder-Under) or similar iron on fusible webbing
Fusible Tear-away (if required)
Baking paper or one of those iron mat things
Thread – either plain white or contrasting or colours that match your appliqué fabric
Scissors, pencil, tracing paper
Sewing Machine (that has a zigzag stitch)

Step 4: Getting your fabric ready – the sticky stuff
Now that you have nice clean dry fabric you need to get the fabric ready for appliquéing. As I am usually making multiples of the one design, I like to cut enough fabric for few designs. For a single design I would cut a piece a little larger than the apple, for example. To make appliquéing ‘easy’ some clever people invented a double sided fusible webbing that you iron to your fabric which then enables to you iron your fabric to the garment on which it will be appliquéd. I use one called Vliesofix but I am sure there are others available. For ease of use I now use the paper backed Vliesofix (it’s perhaps a better option for beginners).

This photo shows the wrong side of the fabric, the double sided fusable webbing (Vliesofix) and the backing paper
Cut a piece of Vliesofix the same size as the fabric you are using. I like to protect my ironing board and iron by using some baking paper (I buy a generic one from the store that is much cheaper than 'Gladebake' that I use in the kitchen). Put the backing paper down on the ironing board (with enough excess paper to fold over on top of your fabric). Place your fabric down on your baking paper on the ironing board right side down (wrong side facing you). Place your Vliesofix web side down onto the wrong side of the fabric. You should have the backing paper facing you. Fold over the remaining piece of baking paper to enclose the fabric/Vliesofix stack. With your iron at the setting required (depending on what brand fusible webbing you are using) iron the web side down onto the back of your fabric. Repeat this with smaller pieces of your fabric for leaves and for the apple stem.

Above photo shows fabric and Vliesofix between baking paper being fused together

Vliesofix is around $11.00AUS per metre retail (I use the widest version).

Step 5 Cutting your design
Now copy your design from your template onto the backing paper of the Vliesofix. Remember to reverse the image if you want it to be the other way around on the tee-shirt (if that makes sense). Or rather than using a template, you can just draw directly onto the backing paper - I use this method a lot. Now cut out your design. Leave the backing paper on the design until you are ready to go.

Step 6: Fusing your appliqué to the base garment - more sticky stuff
Now we are getting to the exciting bit. Iron your tee-shirt or onesie and place it nice and flat on your ironing boards. Remove the backing paper from your cut appliqué and place it on your tee-shirt. Fiddle around with it until it is perfect as once its ironed on, there is no moving it! When you put the stem and leaves on the top of the apple, make sure a little of the stem is under the apple. Once it’s perfect, I place a piece of your kitchen baking paper over it all and iron it for the required time. The baking paper protects the design from any stray Vliesofix that may have stuck to the iron – if any of you have accidentally ironed this stuff, you will know what a pain it can be.

Above photo shows design laid out waiting to be ironed on the singlet.

I like to use Fusible Tear-away on my garments. Fusible Tear-away is a fabric stabiliser – simply it provides a slightly stiff backing that ensures your machine will not pucker the garment while appliquéing. I think this is essential if you are using base garments that are made of very light weight fabric. For example some little tops and singlets from stores like Cotton On in Australia are thin enough that they may pucker without this. It’s an easy step – just cut a piece larger than your appliqué design, turn your garment inside out and iron the Fusible Tear-away shiny side down to the back of the design, ensuring you have a good ½ inch around the design. The brand I use is around $4.00AUS a metre retail.

Above photo shows the Fusible Tear-away being applied to the inside of the singlet

The next and final tutorial will cover stitching the appliqué design and finishing off the garment.


Suzanne said...

Oh wow I just hopped over to your blog at the perfect time. I am new to patchwork and sewing and what a delight to find. Thanks for sharing.

A Spoonful Of Sugar said...

I must admit I don't usually use baking paper to protect my iron - however I think I will take your advice and get some cheap paper - my ironing cover and iron will thank you!!

CurlyPops said...

Thanks for the baking paper tip...I've never tried that either but that's a great idea to stop any sticky bits. I've never used the tear away stabiliser either and I have had some t-shirt puckering problems in the past so that's another great tip!

Lina said...

I love the baking paper tip too! I have managed to pretty much ruin my iron and ironing board cover with bondaweb! Mainly due to lack of patience on my part...!

Natalie... said...

This is such a wonderful post, and your directions and photos are so clear to follow. I've been going through a bit of an applique faze recently so this is just perfect. especially the fusible tearaway tip, (all sorts of pucker problems here so can't wait to try this one out) thanks so much :)

melissa said...

Your appliqued teeshirts are all so adorable!

Kate said...

Thanks for part two and the baking paper tip!

tiff said...

I am loving this. LOVING IT.
I know I owe you an email and a meme too.